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Diagrams
Often I try to
help people out by drawing up quick diagrams to better explain how I do
things. I decided it might be beneficial if I make some of these diagrams
(as badly illustrated as they may be) available publicly so they may help
more folks out. I'll try to describe a little about what's going on in the
diagram, and maybe it'll inspire you to try out new techniques and
innovations with your costume items!
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| A diagram to help someone who was trying to do a plastic
canvas/balaclava hybrid mask. Where they combined the two
techniques to get the balaclava's fit, but the plastic canvas's
mechanical properties for a moving jaw. The plastic jaw mount
squares would be sandwiched between the balaclava and the foam,
and possibly glued/sewn into place. Of course, all placements
would be variable to whatever worked best for the mask. |
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| By popular demand: 3-D eyes that do not use plastic
"domes" to construct. These eyes are recessed, and they
are an optical illusion to the viewers that the costume is
"looking" at you no matter what angle you are viewing
at. Use plastic, fun foam, or any material you think will work
good for this project (use your best judgment). |
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| Yes! The ears really do move! Here's a hopefully self-explanatory
diagram of how I made the ears "perk up" on my Matrices
mask. |
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This was drawn for a question in fursuit
where the person wanted to make a dragon mask with ear fins that
folded up. This was my diagram that went with my suggestion:
Make the top "fin" of the ear be hollow, so a string
can go through it, weight the bottom fin with a slight weight so
the ears will fall open when you release the string. Affix a
string through the boning to the bottom weighted fin, and then run
a track inside the mask, down the wearer's sleeve, and so.. when
you pull down the ears fold up. and when you release the string
they open (due to the weights)
Think of how vertical blinds work, you pull the string down, and
the blinds open, and there's strings going through each blind to
keep them together, and then there's the large weighted blind at
the bottom so when you release the string they close (or in the
sake of the ear's terminology, they "open") |
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| Delrin rod is an industrial (special order) plastic rod that can
be bent with a heat gun. It works well as an armature for a large
tail and its reasonably bouncy, so makes for a really fun tail to
wear. This diagram describes how I made a base for a tail, here's
the original description that went with it:
I started at one end heating the rod 2-inches from the end, I
bent it at a right angle "down", then heated it two
inches from that bend and bent it at a right angle "up".
Then I measured how wide my belt was (about another 2 inches) and
bent it "horizontal" .. the horizontal segment I left
about 4 inches long, and the next bend was "down" then
from there another belt-width segment, and finally a two inch
segment until the base was in a square. I zip tied it with a small
zip tie at the top and bottom of the first 2-inch segment where it
butted up against the main tail part. Then I heated up my base and
bent it so the tail was set out at an angle away from the body,
after that cooled, I zip tied it at the top, closest to the base,
and ran a larger zip tie through that over the top of the 4-inch
segment, so I could run my belt through it. From there, I
continued heating along the length of my tail so my tail was as
curvy as I wanted. |
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| This is a diagram that I made on how to do a
"whipstitch" a quick and simple method of hand-sewing.
It was originally for a handout on sewing tails which I handed out
at Conifur Northwest
2004. Hopefully its self-explanatory. |
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