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Making a bodysuit This is just a page full of tips from my personal experiences on how to make a bodysuit. You can purchase McCall's or Simplicity patterns from most fabric stores. I adapted my pattern from McCall's #8953. I also use a sewing machine to sew my bodysuits. It is possible to hand-sew a suit, but the process will take much longer than it does using a machine.
Another thing you'll need is the same yardage that you bought for the fur of a cheaper "test" fabric. Try to get the same width as well. I used plain black canvas (because it was the same width as my fake fur, and was rather inexpensive) This will help you practice laying out and cutting your pattern if you've never done a pattern before. Once you have your pattern pieces cut out, chalked to your test fabric, and fabric pieces cut out, make sure to label them and don't forget to cut out the little triangle markers! Those will help you in lining up your fabric pieces just right. Follow the instructions that came with your pattern pieces and sew together the test fabric. This will make your test suit. Be sure to stick to the pattern! The only change I suggest is making the zipper be in the back, which is very easy and doesn't alter the pattern much. If you are just beginning, its best to start out with a simple one-color suit, you can always add to it later once you get the hang of things. Fitting is important if you want a good-looking suit. The whole purpose of making the test suit, is so you can fit it to yourself with minimal waste of your more-expensive fake fur. Assuming you bought the correct size pattern, I'm sure it fits a little loose. To make it form fitting, try on your test suit with the wrong side of the fabric out (so the seams and seam allowances show on the outside) and have a friend help you safety pin it closed if you put the zipper spot in the back. There will be obvious places that need to be trimmed down, such as the arms or legs (though I always keep my legs looser, that's just a personal preference, though). Pull up the costume and get an idea where you need to trim things down. Mark them with your chalk (make sure to mark the beginning spot and the ending spot. as well as if it curves inwards or outwards). The usual spots I trim down include the underside of the arms, the waist, and the inside of the leg. Sew them (but do not cut the seam allowance!) and try the test suit on again until it fits just right. That way you can be sure before making any cuts. Once you are
sure your test suit fits right, trim down all the seams to about 1/2 inch
seam allowance, make sure to include some tabs for lining up pieces like
from the paper pattern. Then take a seam ripper and CAREFULLY pull apart
one side (you do not need to pull apart both sides, because you cut two
pattern pieces. So you'll really only need one side for your fitted
pattern). Now that you've got your fabric pattern from your test suit, you are all ready to transfer it to the fake fur! Lay out your fabric pattern, chalk it, and then carefully cut the fake fur's backing. Use small snips of the scissors so you don't cut so many of the hairs, this will help a little bit in reducing the shedding. Pin together your fur pattern pieces, and carefully sew them according to the instructions. Once its all sewn you can add a zipper. Usually sewing machines have what's called a "zipper foot" which is larger on one side so you can properly space your zipper's seam allowance. When you have your zipper attached and all your seams sewn, its time to try on your suit. Turn it inside out (so the fur is on the outside, sillies). Fluff it out and put it on and zip it up. Does it fit? I hope so! There might be a few areas to smooth out with the sewing machine, rounding out corners and hemming the sleeves and leg bottoms and such. Spend some time pulling any fur that got stuck in the seams out, after that you can trim down any bulky seam allowances try to leave at least 1/4th inch if you choose to trim them. Something's missing! No, I didn't forget! I just saved it for last -- The tail! Depending on what animal you chose to make the suit for will determine the size and shape of the tail, as well as how much extra fur is left over from cutting the main pattern. If you've also got leftover test fabric, you can test out some different tail designs before you do the fake fur one as well. I hand-sew my tails on my suits, or I leave an opening to wear the tail on a belt, if it is a heavier tail. You can also follow the instructions from the original pattern if you get stuck on how to do it. I don't recommend trying to machine-sew the tail on, because that is too many layers of fabric to sew at once.
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© Sara Howard, 2004. (top)